51. Coldingham

start: Eyemouth
distance: 21 miles
OS map: 67

Another piece in the Berwickshire coastal jigsaw, the route uses some paths which are quite rough in parts and you'll need to push in places and carry up and down steps. Don't let that put you off, though, because there are plenty of rewards to compensate...

From Eyemouth, head up the hill as if you're aiming for Coldingham but, instead, go straight across the A1107 towards Alemill at (915 636). Turn L over the bridge, then immediately R to go uphill. After a mile or so you'll meet the B6438. Turn L for 400m then R. Pass Press Castle and, still gaining height, join the main A1107 across Coldingham Moor.

As you reach the R turn for Fast Castle, the views open out and you can see North Berwick Law, Torness, the Bass Rock and beyond to Fife. This road stops at a small parking area at Dowlaw. It's possible to cycle N along a track which eventually descends to Fast Castle, built on the rocks below. Not that there's much left of it to see and quite why it was built in such an exposed spot is a bit of a mystery to me. It's worth a look though, if you've time.

Go back to the parking area and turn L. You're wanting to get to Lumsdaine farm to the SE. The route looks a tad improbable but we were assured by a local person that it is, in fact, a right of way so don't be put off. Go past the farm buildings and kink L a bit looking for a track which follows along the L of a stone dyke and heads downwards. You need to lift over a gate to get onto the track. Head downwards and there are two more gates to lift over, the second by the rusting hulk of some farm machinery. This is where the pushing starts, following the grassy line upwards and keeping straight ahead. You'll soon meet a proper track which bears R and goes on to Lumsdaine.

Treat yourself now to the long run down into Coldingham - shops and a couple of pubs. Next stop is St Abbs so take the road NE out of the village. To add a little interest, you could head out to look at St Abbs Head - it'll add a couple of miles to the journey. Another possible approach to St Abbs is by what I think is known locally as the 'Creel Road'. Look out for this track which starts at a layby on the R at (909 666) and takes you down between hedgerows to emerge right in the village.

The harbour here is well worth a look and is popular with divers; particularly at weekends. Just above the harbour and to the S is a row of cottages. Our route takes the road just in front of them which leads to a path that goes round to Coldingham Beach. Avoid taking the steps that go down to the beach but carry on round to meet the road that goes down to the beach.

You'll need to push now as you pass in front of a cafe to take the path upwards. Go over and down to a stony cove. There are steps up at the end of this beach to a clifftop path which leads round to Linkim Shore, albeit with a few obstacles on the way. There's a long grassy path along the shore and this turns R at the end of the beach to take a small glen. More steps upwards to emerge by a stile and a bench - pause for breath.

The path now follows the edge of a field and a stone wall and leads, hopefully without further difficulty, into Eyemouth. You can either go round the back of the caravan site or head directly into town.

jb, galashiels

Download GPS data in GPX format.

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